Bornholm, Denmark

Bornholm is a small island belonging to Denmark, in between Sweden and Germany.

To get to Bornholm, we crossed the Øresund Bridge, (a 16-kilometer) that connects Copenhagen, Denmark, and Malmö, Sweden, which is also known from being the setting of the TV series "The Bridge". 

We drove from Malmö to Ystad, where we got the ferry Molslinjen to Bornholm. Make sure you book your tickets a few months beforehand to get a better deal.

The ferry trip takes just than one hour so you can enjoy a drink and the view on the deck.

Allinge Badehotel

We stayed in Allinge Badehotel, an amazing and cute hotel on the top point of the island in Allinge.

The building dates back to 1774, and its history even carries a royal touch, when King Frederik VII and his wife Countess Danner stayed overnight in 1851.

It is now a beautiful hotel "committed to creating the best guest experience and a sense of down to earth luxury".

The hotel is run by Mie Lavine, who also comes from Belgium, and she really treats every guest with great care.

We booked two rooms that gave on to the courtyard with beautiful lavender, hollyhocks and an amazing fig tree. The breakfast is served on the top floor of the building overlooking the sea (a special mention about the homemade fig jam).

Just opposite the hotel, you can dive or step down to swim in the sea.

You can also walk along a beautiful path right next to the sea, past the Næs Strand, Æggehønen, and enjoy sunbathing at Sandkås Strand (don't forget the suncream) and end at Tejn, 5 km away from Allinge

Smokehouses on Bornholm

Smokehouses on Bornholm are called Røgeri, they are traditional places with tall white chimneys where you can taste freshly smoked fish, such as herring or salmon, prepared according to local recipes. Most of the smokehouses are opened from April until after Autumn half-term.

We decided to go and try out as many Røgeri as possible. These iconic smokehouses are scattered across the island and we managed 4 of them in one day.

The first one up was Bakka Røgeriet, it was established in 1938 and is situated on the south coast next to a small fishing habor and Sømarken beach.

Next we hit Snogebaek Røgeri, about 12 minutes away by car also on the south coast.

Snogebæk Røgeri is both a restaurant and a shop where you can enjoy more smoked fish. You should also go and check out alka badested, a beautiful scenic spot one minute away.

We were on a roll, so we then headed to Svaneke Røgeri, another old-fashioned røgeri, on the East coast in small artistic town named Svaneke.

You will also find a local brewery, Bryghuset, which is the only brewery on the island of Bornholm. Right next to the smokehouse, you can check out the historic cannons, those used to defend the island against Sweden and Poland.

And last but not least, we ended up at Hasle Røgeri where fish has been smoked for over 100 years.  This fishing village is on the West coast of Bornholm.

This is the home of a local dish called “Sol over Gudhjem”: an open sandwich of smoked herring, egg yolk, radishes and chives. You can washed down with a beer from Svaneke Bryghus or a cider from Bornholms Mosteri.

And that's the end of the perfect Røgeri tour, a wonderful sunny day with family tasting the most delicious smoked fish the old tradional way.

Kadeau

Our main reason for going to Bornholm in 2024 was to go to Kadeau, a one Michelin star and Michelin green star restaurant, which opens mid May till September.

Kadeau Bornholm, opened in 2007 on the sandy beach of Øster Sømarken on the southern tip of the island, then later Kadeau Copenhagen was launched in the historic Christianshavn quarter.

Kadeau was founded by childhood friends Nicolai Nørregaard, Rasmus Kofoed and Magnus Klein Kofoed – all three of them Bornholm natives. In 2022, long-term friend and head chef Kyumin Hahn became part of the senior management of the restaurant as partner.

Our friend Lidde Hansen worked there over the summer of 2022, so we really were exited to go there with her to enjoy their tasting menu.

The setting of this restaurant is incredible, you are on a remote beachside where you can first enjoy a glass of champagne and an hors d'oeuvre admiring the sunset from their terrace.

"We start everyday in the organic Kadeau garden, where our chefs harvest what is needed for the day. Our other main source of ingredients is the wild, and we have developed an awareness for just picking what we need to ensure enough is left for the plants to come again the following year."

— Nicolai Nørregaard

This quote encompasses what Kadeau stands for, you are transported with every bite into their world.

Today's garden harvest

Mahogany clam, cultured cream and sloe blossom

Mackerel with fresh cheese and ramson flower

Herb and oyster salad

Shrimp and peas

Ham & strawberry pie

Brown crab, quince and elderflower

Queen scallop, white asparagus and caviar

Hot and cold smoked salmon

Rye palthest

Squid and celeriac

Aged pork

Berries from the garden

Pumpkin seed and milk

Cardamom cake

Here are wines that accompanied this incredible menu

Domaine de l'Ecru, Janus

Loire 2023

Nikoladzeebis Marani, Solikouri Nakhshirgele

Imereti, Georgia 2022

Vallée Moray, Cailloutis

Loire 2021

Alexandre Bain, Champ Couturier

Loire 2020

Arianna Occhipinti, SP68

Sicily 2022

Ferme de la Sansonnière, Rosé d'un jour

Loire 2022

We received the menu signed by the chefs which we have now have framed in our kitchen and we also were given some coriander seeds from their garden.

Other activities in Borholm

In the northern tip of Bornholm, you'll find the impressive medieval fortress of Hammershus.

Hammerhus is the largest castle ruin in Northern Europe and the most popular attraction on Bornholm. Erected in 1200 by the arch bishop of Lund and the Danish church, Hammershus played an important part in the struggles and wars in the middle ages in Europe.

It was deserted in 1745 and allowed to fall into decay and is now a must-see if you visit the island. The fortress is open all year round and has no entrance fee.

After enjoying Hammershus, you can drive to Opalsøen, an opal blue coloured artificial lake, created by stone quarrying, which was then slowly filled with water.